Ian Cumberland Island is my favorite place to visit hands down! The fact that it is 5 hours by car from Atlanta has enabled me to go so many times that I have been able to explore the island top to bottom. It is what I consider to be my happy place 🙂 The island is left in nearly its original state since the time of the Carnegie’s, with no vehicles except for park service golf carts, and my favorite… wild horses!
History:
Cumberland Island, the largest of Georgia’s barrier islands, is a place where nature, history, and legends intertwine along its windswept beaches, marshes, and dense maritime forests. This tranquil island not only offers a sanctuary for wildlife and a paradise for nature lovers but also holds a rich tapestry of American history.
The Native American Legacy
Before European settlers arrived, Cumberland Island was home to indigenous peoples for thousands of years. The Timucua were among the early known inhabitants, leaving behind middens that tell a story of a culture deeply connected to the coastal environment. These Native American inhabitants hunted, fished, and gathered along the bountiful shores and forests of Cumberland Island, living in harmony with the land.
Colonial Intrusions and the Carnegie Era
The island’s recorded history began in the 16th century with the arrival of Spanish missionaries who attempted to establish missions to convert the indigenous population. Over the centuries, the island passed between Spanish, French, and British hands, becoming a point of conflict and trade.
The 19th century saw a transformation of the island into a more permanent settlement. Perhaps the most notable era was when the wealthy Carnegie family purchased much of the island in the 1880s. They built grand mansions, bringing a touch of opulence to this remote location. The remains of the grand Carnegie Dungeness Mansion, destroyed by fire in 1959, still stand as a hauntingly beautiful relic of the Gilded Age.
Conservation and National Seashore
In the mid-20th century, the island’s future took a turn toward conservation. Concerned about the potential for commercial development, the Carnegie family, along with other conservation-minded individuals, began to advocate for the preservation of the island’s natural and historic resources. This led to the establishment of the Cumberland Island National Seashore in 1972, which today encompasses most of the island.
A Natural and Historical Haven
Cumberland Island now stands as a protected national seashore, accessible only by ferry. It’s a place where wild horses roam freely, loggerhead turtles nest on the sandy beaches, and you may be able to spot armadillos in the underbrush. The maritime forests, undeveloped shores, and marshes provide a haven for diverse flora and fauna. Visitors are immersed in wildlife as they walk trails that lead to historic sites, including the First African Baptist Church, where John F. Kennedy Jr. was married in 1996.
The Human Footprint and Ongoing Preservation
The history of human interaction with the island is a constant narrative of Cumberland’s story. From Native American times to the present, people have left their marks. Today, the National Park Service manages the island, balancing the preservation of its wild landscape with its historical landmarks. The legacy of Cumberland Island is a reminder of the need for careful stewardship to maintain the delicate balance between conservation and human presence.
Travel:
Traveling to Cumberland Island: A Guide to Accessing Georgia’s Secluded Paradise
Planning a trip to Cumberland Island, Georgia’s largest and southernmost barrier island, is an adventure in itself. Known for its pristine beaches, wild horses, and rich history, the island is a hidden gem that offers a unique blend of natural beauty and serenity. However, its protected status and remote location mean that getting there requires plenty of preparation. Here’s your guide on how to travel to this secluded paradise.
1. Getting to the Mainland Departure Point
The primary gateway to Cumberland Island is the charming coastal town of St. Marys, Georgia. St. Marys is accessible by car and is approximately a 30-minute drive from Interstate 95. For those flying in, the nearest major airports are Jacksonville International Airport in Florida, about 45 minutes away, and Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport in Georgia, which is about two hours north.
2. Ferry Service to Cumberland Island
The most common way to reach Cumberland Island is by ferry. The Cumberland Island Ferry, operated by the National Park Service, departs from the mainland at the Cumberland Island Visitor Center in St. Marys.
- Ferry Reservations: It’s essential to book your ferry tickets in advance, especially during peak seasons, as the ferry has limited capacity and can fill up quickly. Reservations can be made online or by phone.
- Ferry Schedule: The ferry typically runs twice a day, with additional services during peak seasons. The schedule can vary, so it’s important to check the current timetable and plan accordingly.
- Travel Time: The ferry ride to Cumberland Island takes about 45 minutes.
- What to Bring: Pack essentials like water, snacks, sunscreen, and insect repellent. If you’re planning to camp, make sure you have all your camping gear, as there are no supplies available on the island.
3. Private Boats
I have never taken one but you could charter a boat to get there if you can find one. You could take your own boat, but really can’t dock there. Docking on the island requires a permit from the National Park Service.
4. Camping and Accommodation Reservations
If you plan to stay overnight, ensure you have a camping reservation, as the island has a limited number of campsites and they go fast. For a more comfortable stay, the Greyfield Inn offers luxurious accommodations, but expect to pay for it, and bookings should be made well in advance due to high demand. I love the ocean and waves, and the Greyfield inn is on the western side of the island, without waves or beaches, so it never really appealed to me, even without the high price.
5. Exploring the Island
Once on the island, you arrive in paradise. There are no rental services on the island. If you wish to bike, you’ll need to bring your own along on the ferry, but space is limited to 10 bikes per ferry trip and there is a transport fee of $10 per bike. You can use the bike on the roads only except for a small stretch of beach to protect nesting birds habitats. The ferry dock is on the west side of the island. This is the side where the Greyfield Inn is. The beaches are on the east side along with sea camp which is about a mile from the dock. The entire eastern coast is a beach, with many day trippers opting to go to the southern point since it is the closest to the ferry. Most of the trails head north into the backcountry. It is important to note that there is not any water on the island except for the ranger station and Plum Orchard, so pack some water bottles!
In Conclusion
Visiting Cumberland Island is a delightful escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, offering a chance to connect with nature and step back in time. By planning your travel carefully, you can ensure a smooth and enjoyable journey to this extraordinary destination.
Our Experience:
There is literally too much to say about my trips to Cumberland Island to write.. I will do my best. I cannot remember my first time going, I think it was when I was in the boy scouts or around the elementary school age. Whenever it was, I remember falling in love immediately.
Tips:
- Definitely planning your trip is required. I plan about a year ahead. Buy your ferry tickets and camping spots as soon as they become available. They go fast. One of the charming things about the island is that they are very restricting about how many people can be on the island at one time.
- Camp if you can! Before the first and after the last ferries are the most magical times on the island.
- Mosquito season is June through September. Avoid these times. The mosquitos are very intense.. More intense then I can convey. Bring 2x the insect spray you need regardless of the time of year anyway. I try to get campsites on the east side closest to the beach so you spend less time walking through them. The mosquitos disappear as soon as you get to the dunes because of the wind.
- There are carts to help you move your stuff from the ferry to your campsite if you are staying in “sea camp”. If you want to stay in the “backcountry” you will have to carry it. I know from experience that cooler wheels will not make it through the thick sand roads or the trail. The island is not that large, so I normally stay at sea camp and take day trips to the northern parts. However, if you want to never see any other people on your stay, the backcountry is where you want to be.
- You can buy ice from the ferry when it comes in to refill coolers. They also sell candy bars and canned sodas, but thats it.
- There is no power on the island. There is one outlet on the outside of the ranger station, but it is usually occupied with other people charging their phones. I always bring little battery backups.
